July 11th, 2008


11
Jul 08

Kabocha and Satsumaimo

Kabocha and Satsumaimo

Some of the offerings in Japanese food are carb heaven (or hell, if you choose to see it that way). Some vegetables are definitelty included such as kabocha (Japanese pumpkin) and satusmaimo (white yam) pictured above.

Kabocha has a flavor very similar to butternut squash. In Japanese cooking, it is either deep fried in tempura batter or simmered in a soy-sauce and brown sugar broth. Tempura provides a quick, convenient way to enjoy kabocha slices, but the drawback is that the color is covered up (and it’s fried in oil). It takes longer to simmer pieces of kabocha, but the soy sauce and brown sugar definitely compliment its flavor.

A few years ago, a friend of mine baked kabocha with some stuffing as one of his Thanksgiving dishes. While the initial preparation and cooking time can be time consuming, the idea is fairly simple and adaptable. I’ve stuffed kabocha with ground turkey and some chopped vegetables and have gotten some good results. I’ve always wanted to try this out with lamb, but I haven’t gotten around it. Conceptually, it’s easy, but execution takes some committment.

Satsumaimo means Satsuma potato, but it is simply a white yam or sweet potato and can be prepared as such. It has a nice, light flavor, though it is just as sweet. Like kabocha, it can be sliced up and fried in tempura batter. Satsumaimo can be baked and eaten.

Not pictured but just as delicious is the purple yam, which grows in Okinawa. I’ve only had it in my childhood, but I have never seen one in the US. Several years ago, a friend of my mother’s brought one from Okinawa and tried to grow it in their yard, but the yam turned white. It must be something in the soil.


11
Jul 08

Miso

Miso

If you’ve only had miso soup made from a dehydrated powder mix, you’re missing out. This common Japanese side dish is best made fresh from a paste like those pictured above.

Miso is fermented soybeans, rice, and barley. While it is typically a rich paste with some degree of saltiness, miso varies in color, flavor, texture, and intensity. Some are even sweet (though not in the candy sense). “Red” and “white miso are commonly used for soups along with dashi (soup stock made with bonito flakes and a strip of kombu [kelp]) for flavoring.

Making the soup isn’t too difficult. All you need is a small tub of miso paste, some dashi, and water (of course). A bit of salt can be substituted if you don’t have access to dashi or if their use is too complicated.

For the miso, I prefer those imported from Japan. I typically use white miso, though red is just as good. While Whole Foods and Wild Oats carry miso made in the USA, I don’t trust them. I grew up on Japanese miso and that’s what I use as an adult. I know what it tastes like, whereas I fear that the American variety is made with hippie-dippy health food tastes in mind. If this is what you have access to, work with what you got. I’ll just have to treat you to the real thing if possible.

Dashi can easily be made by boiling bonito flakes and kombu together. I tend to take a more modern approach and use an instant, granulated type. It makes preparation much quicker and easier. On some level, this may contradict my feeling about powdered miso. However, miso is the star while dashi is the supporting player. While my mother also uses granulated dashi, she gives adds a more authentic touch with throwing a square or two of kombu in the soup mix.

A heaping tablespoon of miso for every two cups of water should generally do the trick. Trust your tastebuds on figuring out the amount. Bring water to a boil and then turn it down before adding some dashi (sprinkle sparingly) and miso. Never, never, never over-boil miso as it ruins the flavor and the aroma. While miso paste can be pungent, miso soup can have a pleasant, nutty aroma.

Almost anything can be added to miso soup: chicken, clams, fish, scallions, spinach, potatoes, to name a few. I’ve even added a few things such as courgettes and yellow crookneck squash.

Miso has quite a few other uses as well. It can be made into a grilling sauce or salad dressing. Also, some of the darker varieties of miso are used as fillings for onigiri (rice balls). I’m good at making those too.